How about an Old-Vine, Barrel Fermented, Reserve, Estate Bottled wine? Which of these terms has no legal meaning in California (90% of US production)? You might be surprised!

Let’s take a look at Old-Vine, a favorite word amongst Zinfandel producers. The virtues of old vines are constantly being extolled via labels and ad campaigns, but what does this term mean? Well, in a word, nothing. According to the TTB, which is the Tax and Trade Bureau, the governmental agency tasked with regulating our alcohol labeling, there is no law on the books to say how old a vine needs to be to be termed “old-vine”. This means that if a producer wants to make some wine from his 5 year old vines and call it old vine, they are legally allowed to do so.

So if this doesn’t mean anything, how do we tell which wines are from old vines and should it matter? Unfortunately, there is no way short of asking the grower how old his or her vines are to determine if you are drinking an “old-vine” wine. As for the second half of that question, let me posit this. At the 1976 Tasting of Paris, the 1973 Stag’s Leap S.L.V. Cabernet was pitted against the greatest France had to offer in a blind tasting and came out on top. It was made from 3 year old vines.

If that little anecdote isn’t enough for you, then settle in for the story of the greatest Bordeaux vintage of the 20th Century. In 1961 the stars aligned to produce what is widely considered the greatest vintage ever produced in the Medoc. The funny thing is, in 1956 this area was struck with the coldest winter on record since 1709, which is prior to the founding of most of these famous Chateaus. The result was not only a loss of that year’s crop to the point that it is nearly impossible to find wine from that vintage but, a large portion of the vineyards were destroyed.

This means that the greatest vintage in 1961 was made from vines planted just 4-5 years earlier. How can this be, you say? We keep being told that older vines make more concentrated fruit and better wine. Well, now for the confusing part, they do. But this is because older vines produce less fruit per vine resulting in lower yields. It is this lower yield that results in the greater concentration. These lower yields can be achieved with young vines as well.

This doesn’t mean just pick less fruit from the vine. What this means is at varying points of the life cycle of the vine, steps are taken to assure that each vine only has a small number of grape bunches upon which to lavish their love and nurture to excellence. Sort of like smaller class sizes. This can be accomplished through minimizing the number of buds during the winter pruning. Green harvesting, cutting off a percentage of the grape clusters while they are still green early in the growing season and dropping them on the ground, can also accomplish this.

Both of these practices are utilized by many conscientious growers to produce some of the great wines listed below. Be sure and find out the answers to the rest of the question posed above over the course of the following weeks.

Muri-Gries Pinot Grigio 2010, Straw yellow in color with intensive green reflexes, its aroma of fresh fruits, ripe Williams pears, and herbs with mint is tangy with a taste of black tea, slightly buttery and nutty. Powerfully structured, hefty and heavy with slightly bitter, long finish. We will be tasting this wine this Friday 4-7. Only 17.99!!!

Castell Del Remei Gotim Bru 2008, Costers Del Segre, 'Gotim' meaning a selection of bunches and 'bru' meaning terroir, this red has an attractive, perfumed nose with cherry, toasted red fruit, balsamic notes and sweet spicy oak characters. Ripe fruit on the palate is balanced with fresh acidity and present yet supple tannins. Only 16.99!!!

Quinta Dos Murcas, Assobio 2009, boasts a deep ruby colour with hints of violet and red fruit and spice aromas. It has an elegant palate, thanks to its delicate tannins, and impressive notes of young fruit. This is a versatile wine and matches well with all types of food, ranging from the most sophisticated gastronomy to traditional cuisine. Only 15.99!!!

Prices good through 2/22/2012.

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